When you turn on a tap, water is generally coming from the water stored in your pressure tank. As the tank drains, the pressure in the tank and your water system decrease. A very common problem with private water systems is the loss of pressure when there are multiple uses of water at one time. The pump and pressure tank work together to provide your water pressure, so you need to consider both. When you use water, the pressure in your system decreases until a low-pressure switch kicks on your pump. The pump then supplies water and increases pressure in your system until a high-pressure switch is tripped, which shuts the pump off. Heavy water use means the pressure tank will eventually need help from the pump to keep up with use. The larger the tank, the more water that is stored under pressure, and the more water that can be used before the pump kicks on.

If you have air coming out of your faucets, there are several likely causes. The most common are dissolved gases in the water and water levels in the well dropping to the level of the pump intake. If you have gas in solution, like methane, it can be released from the water at your tap. This occurs because the water pressure you maintain in your system keeps the gas in solution, but at the tap the pressure drops to atmospheric pressure, allowing the gas to bubble out of the water.

A well may be in an aquifer that just doesn’t provide that much water. These wells are termed low-yield wells. There may be plenty of water in the aquifer, but it has to be drawn out slowly to maintain a sufficient water level in the well. In many cases, these systems use a large or multiple pressure tanks so that more water is stored and ready for use during periods of no use, rather than relying on the pump to keep up with water use.

If your well provided plenty of water at one time, but now can’t keep up, then there may be something else going on. Sometimes a well slowly loses yield over time. This can happen because of a lower water table or due to clogged openings in your well.

To understand if your pump is working properly, you need to be able to tell when it is running. If your pump is in your basement (i.e., a shallow jet pump), it’s obvious when your pump is running and when it isn’t. But when the pump is in the well, it isn’t as easy to know if your pump is on or off. Luckily, you can watch the water pressure tank gauge to check your pump. Though you can’t actually hear a submersible pump running, you should hear the pressure control switch click as it turns the pump on and off, and when the pump is on, you can see the pressure increasing on the gauge. If this isn’t what you see happening, then there might be an issue.

If there is water pressure when you turn on a faucet and the pump control switch is clicking on and off, meaning the pump is turning on and off like it is supposed to, but the system pressure gauge doesn’t move, then it could be the gauge itself is stuck and not working properly. This can happen if it is old, or if sediment has plugged the gauge opening. The pressure gauge on your system is an important tool in maintaining your water system and diagnosing problems. If it sticks, have it replaced.

If you have a shallow dug or bored well and it goes dry, then you may not have many options. These wells are built in areas without significant aquifers for the purpose of storing water that seeps into the well slowly. If it’s a really dry year, it may be that the water table has dropped below your well. The best thing you can do in this situation is have a potable water tank as a backup. You can have water delivered or haul it yourself from a municipal source, and practice conservation until the situation changes. The other option would be to drill a deeper well. If you have been at your location very long, you probably have had this problem before, and may already have a solution in place.

Sometimes, wells aren’t dry, but the water level has dropped below the pump intake. This could be because of dry weather or possibly interference from another pumping well. Maybe a large capacity well, for irrigation or industry, is close to you and has lowered the water levels in the aquifer below your pump. It’s important to keep water level measurements and pump setting depth in your records for just this reason. If you can determine that there is still water in your well and your pump can be lowered below that depth, it’s a fixable problem.

If floodwaters overtop your well, assume your well is contaminated. Once the water recedes, you should have your well disinfected and sampled for bacteria before using it again. You should also inspect your wellhead to be sure no debris got in your well. This is a particular concern if your vent screen is missing. If you think there is debris, have a contractor clean and disinfect your well. Remember to disconnect any treatment that might be inline in your system prior to disinfection too. If water doesn’t overtop your well, but reaches your well, it is still safest to disinfect and sample prior to use.

If you have the luxury of knowing there could be a flooding issue, be prepared. Beforehand, store a supply of clean water that you can use during the flood period and after. Disconnect the power supply to your well to prevent any electrical damage from shorts circuits. Plug the vent holes temporarily to prevent debris from getting in your well. Septic systems can also be damaged or cause contamination issues during floods. Make sure the access points are sealed. Your septic system should have a backflow preventer before the tank to keep sewage from backing up into your home during a flooding event. If your septic has its own pump, be sure to shut off the power.

The best way to deal with all of these issues is to contact your system professional and seek their advice and help for your particular situation.